Stephanie Sabbe’s Interiors of a Storyteller weaves memoir with interior design and is recommended for Southerners, designers and fans of storytelling of all stripes.
Stephanie Sabbe’s Interiors of a Storyteller weaves memoir with interior design and is recommended for Southerners, designers and fans of storytelling of all stripes.
American World War II soldiers collected souvenirs from their dead opponents. In Blood, Flowers Bloom tells how those objects are being returned.
American World War II soldiers collected souvenirs from their dead opponents. In Blood, Flowers Bloom tells how those objects are being returned.
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What happens when two adults and their two daughters ditch their suburban Washington, D.C., life and spend a year living in four spots around the world? Writer Dan Kois and his family spent 2017 in New Zealand, the Netherlands, Costa Rica and Kansas. We had some questions about his entertaining account of this year, How to Be a Family: The Year I Dragged My Kids Around the World to Find a New Way to Be Together.


Was it hard picking the four destinations of your journey? Did you seriously consider any other options?

We considered scores of other options! Just off the top of my head I remember Argentina, France, Scotland, Japan, Senegal, Tahiti, Iceland, Sweden, Italy, China, India and of course Canada (both Québec and British Columbia). It was extremely difficult! We spent a lot of time researching countries, talking to friends with connections to those countries and thinking about what would be best not only for our family but also for the book I hoped to write. We wanted to find places we actually wanted to go but that also had real, tangible differences from our East Coast suburban lives—places that had things to teach us.

 

You write that practically everyone asks, “Why Kansas?” Did you decide early on that one leg of your journey would be in the United States?

No, it was up in the air until the very end. But it did seem to me that I had to seriously consider the idea that it would be pretty facile to write a book about trying to look beyond our American parenting without acknowledging that there are plenty of American parents whose lives don’t resemble ours at all. In the end, I was convinced by our friend Catherine’s declaration that if we moved to Kansas, “we’d be so bored, but we’d be so happy.” I called her bluff and moved two blocks away from her.

 

Now that some time has passed, do you have a favorite moment from this grand adventure? Or a least favorite moment, for that matter?

I think the goodbye party our friends and neighbors threw in Island Bay, New Zealand, is right up there. It was kind of a perfect night that had the added joy of being so obviously the perfect final scene for that section of the book that I felt through the entire evening great personal and professional fulfillment.

The least favorite moment I wrote about was Lyra’s awful experience in her Dutch school, which was basically my fault. That sucked. The least favorite moment I didn’t write about was, after a 17-hour flight, having an armed guard at the Dubai airport pull me aside, open my gigantic suitcase, remove every single thing from it and finally pull from inside a shoe the weed grinder I’d bought in Wellington on Cuba Street (which I hadn’t even ground any weed in yet!!!!) and sternly tell me, “We don’t do this here.”

 

You and your wife did an enormous amount of planning before you left. What were the most unexpected difficulties you ran into? Did you have any truly unforeseen surprises?

It was so difficult working out schools for our kids! We knew we didn’t want to homeschool or send our kids to private schools. We wanted to experience the public schools in each country. In New Zealand, it required applying for a very specific kind of visa, for which my publisher had to write me a letter of recommendation promising I was not taking any New Zealand jobs while we lived there. In the Netherlands, I spoke to a solid half-dozen people up the bureaucratic chain until I was actually talking to, like, the deputy minister of education, who told me all about an exciting pilot program in Dutch/English bilingual schooling happening at a school in Delft, and then it turned out he was totally wrong and our kids ended up at a school where no one spoke English to them at all. I sure didn’t foresee that.

Also, there were no Airbnbs in Hays, Kansas.

 

Biking in the Netherlands seemed treacherous at first, but you and your family ended up loving it. Surprisingly, the Dutch don’t wear bike helmets. Are you still biking without a helmet back in the U.S.?

I sure am! I try to ride big, with the self-confidence of a tall, handsome Dutchman. I take up a lot of space on the road and ignore impatient drivers as they pile up behind me. Eventually, one of them will run me over, teaching me a valuable lesson about cultural differences.

 

Two of the biggest joys of your book are your humor and honesty. Did your family have any editing power over what you included? Your oldest daughter, after all, noted, “I do not entirely dislike my father’s portrayal of me but think that it’s inaccurate in some ways.”

Lyra, my eldest, did indeed insist upon reading the book and giving notes. I resisted this quite a bit and then, much to my surprise, took pretty much all her notes. My wife also read the book and offered many great suggestions but made only one heartfelt plea: “Please do not include your salary in this book.” So I didn’t.

 

Were you often taking notes? Did your family ever peer over your shoulder or deem anything strictly off limits?

My kids were really aware, throughout the trip, that reporting—the work of interviewing and note-taking—was happening, and that this was a book in the making. They made many recommendations about moments that should or should not go into the book, people I should talk to, stories I should tell. I found that really rewarding, honestly, for them to be intimately involved in this thing that’s always been important to me. I don’t think they exactly understood my job before, but after a year spent seeing me do it in all kinds of different ways (not only for this book but for The World Only Spins Forward, which Isaac and I were writing as I traveled), they really get it now.

 

If you were to make such a trip again, what things might you change?

We’d incorporate our children much more into the planning. One real lesson of our sometimes-disastrous Dutch sojourn was how much more buy-in we’d have had from them if they’d had the chance to participate in the initial discussions. It took them a long time to view the trip as something all four of us were doing together, not something we were doing to them.

Also, we would be rich, so we could afford to go to Costa Rica during the dry season.

 

You really loved certain brands of crackers in New Zealand and Costa Rica. What other treats did you discover? Any new recipes you continue to make?

I cook a mean arroz con pollo, and my rice-and-beans game is very on point. And thanks to World Market, we always have hagelslag—Dutch chocolate sprinkles—in the cabinet for special breakfast occasions.

 

What advice do you have for other families considering such an adventure?

My advice is to do it! It doesn’t have to be this exact adventure, it doesn’t have to be a whole year long, it doesn’t have to skip around the globe. But if you’ve long wanted to take an adventure, take it. Your kids will be fine (I mean, they will be bad sometimes, but that’s OK). The experience of being together through something real, difficult and astonishing will absolutely make up for whatever math classes they miss.

 

What did each of you miss most about home?

Alia: “Our Diet Coke machine. And our friends.”

Harper: “Our house and the things in our house.”

Lyra: “The stability. Knowing everyone, knowing our school, knowing that everything would be manageable.”

Dan: “Our friends and Washington Nationals games on local TV.”

 

Do you see life in Arlington, Virginia, in a different light now that you’ve had this experience?

I think so. I think all of us have a much better sense of the place we all have in the world, the infinite other ways of life out there. That’s really gratifying. It helps me obsess a lot less about our neighbors’ intense Sports Parenting, or enormous McMansions, or status comparisons in general. Not that I’m immune to obsessing, of course. But I think I have dialed it down.

 

ALSO IN BOOKPAGE: Read our review of How to Be a Family.

 

Author photo credit: Alia Smith

Dan Kois reveals what happens when two adults and their two daughters ditch their suburban Washington, DC, life and spend a year living in four spots around the world.
Interview by

What comes to mind when you picture a mother? For many people, the concept of motherhood, and by extension of a family, is associated with whiteness. We spoke with Nefertiti Austin about her memoir, Motherhood So White: A Memoir of Race, Gender, and Parenting in America, the reality of Black women looking to publicly adopt and how she settled into her identity as a Black mother without appeasing societal or cultural expectations.


Your book discusses not only your personal experience of becoming a single parent but the absence of positive representation of Black motherhood. How can Black motherhood be a radical act?

The fact that Black women continue to pursue motherhood despite our history in America is definitely a radical act. Brought here in chains, we were property and so were our children, but we persevered. Even when we were denied access to our kids or forced to nurse and nurture white children, we created a village of grandparents, elders, siblings, neighbors and friends who became family to keep our kids safe. At every juncture, we have laid claim to our offspring, whether or not we gave birth to them, knowing that slavery, segregation, discrimination, criminalization, sexism, homophobia, racism and erasure are no match for a Black mom’s love. 

 

What is the most surprising thing you learned about yourself while on the journey to adopt your son, August? How was this self-revelation different from your experience adopting your daughter, Cherish?

Before becoming a mother, I never considered giving up my free-spirited ways. I was accustomed to coming and going as I pleased, but once the decision to adopt took hold, I realized that I was ready for a more routine-driven existence. Overnight, my life expanded to include carpool, sports and family time; and I was good with that. When my daughter came along, she easily blended into the mix.

 

One of Toni Morrison’s many nuggets of wisdom includes the quote, “The very serious function of racism . . . is distraction. It keeps you from doing your work.” How do racism and, by extension, the white gaze prevent Black mothers from simply being mothers?

Though Black motherhood has often been diminished, we are still mothers. Racism makes our jobs harder because it adds another layer of stress and worry about the emotional and physical safety of our children, but it doesn’t stop us from teaching our kids to tie their shoes. We are primarily focused on loving and caring for our families and less concerned with the white gaze, unless it interferes with their welfare. Then, you will hear from us.

 

What was the most challenging part of writing your memoir? Did having a blog make it easier to assemble and write a full-length book?

The most challenging part of writing my memoir was being vulnerable. In order to share my story and convey the sensitivity that I feel as a Black mother raising Black children in America, I had to shed layers. I had to remove my academic hat and be open to divulge how I felt different from my peers as a child, to discuss my father’s persistent incarceration and accept that I didn’t know my mother in an intimate sense.

I definitely thought my now-defunct blog, Mommiejonesing, would make writing my memoir a breeze. I had assembled a lot of articles written by others and myself on the subject of race, motherhood and adoption. I was armed with information but no feelings beyond outrage and disgust. Plus, I was writing from a distance, and that would have kept the reader from understanding the problem of erasing Black mothers from the parenting canon. In the end, much of what I blogged about did not make it into the book.

 

Your book opens with you taking 5-year-old August to a Black Lives Matter rally. You discuss the very real mixture of fear and anxiety that comes with being a mother to a young Black boy in America. How does white privilege contribute to and sustain the accelerated loss of innocence for Black children?

White privilege gifts white children with a shield that blots out the ugliness of the world. They get to be kids, where mistakes are encouraged and then forgiven. They get to live moment to moment without fear that someone hates/fears/despises them because of their race. This is the power of white privilege.

Simultaneously, Black parents do not have the luxury of not teaching our children about the perniciousness of racism and how, despite best efforts, microagressions and random acts of discrimination will come their way. Our children learn to code switch (act one way with us and another way with whites) and what to do if detained by the police or surveilled by merchants—early. These lessons—i.e., innocence-snatchers—occur as early as 5 years old, because white privilege perpetuates a system with the deck stacked against us. These are our gifts to Black children to keep them safe.

 

In the chapter “Building My Village,” you write, “It had never occurred to me that there was an expectation for little boys to adhere to a specific masculine salutation.” How does the myth of Black hypermasculinity work in conjunction with toxic masculinity? And how can it finally become obsolete?

Personal and emotional safety is a huge issue in our community. Showing fear can be death in some spaces, so emotion or affection between men is not promoted. However, expecting boys to remain in a man box, where not showing emotion or admitting to hurt and acting like nothing touches them, is heralded as masculine and is extremely problematic. It is toxic and a recipe for a shortened life, troubled relationships and mental illness. Plus, it plays into the stereotype of the hypermasculine Black man who needs to be put down by force. We saw this in the case of Rodney King.

As long as systemic racism, mass incarceration, gangs, drugs, poverty, homelessness, unemployment, poor health, undiagnosed PTSD and undereducation prevail where the opposite is true for their white counterparts, Black toxic masculinity isn’t going anywhere.

 

One of the most pervasive stereotypes about Black women is the “Strong Black Woman.” In the chapter “Got My Sea Legs,” you say, “More than one friend commented that I made parenting look easy, but part of the reason I was exploring on my blog how Black women were faring as mothers was because I was feeling the weight of trying to do everything myself.” For Black mothers, especially single Black mothers, how is there power in the decision to be vulnerable?

Self-care is empowering, and we have to give ourselves permission to ask for help. We are so used to doing everything ourselves that we don’t know how to ask for help or we think that being vulnerable is a sign of weakness or admission that single motherhood was a mistake. So we put pressure on ourselves to just handle things and succumb to the societal pressure of being all things to everybody. Most women, regardless of race, take care of the children, elders and work. It’s too much, and the reality is that Black women’s mental and physical health are taking a nosedive. Heart attacks, autoimmune diseases, cancer, obesity, high blood pressure and diabetes are taking their toll on us in a big way. We suffer when we don’t take care of ourselves or each other.

 

How can a sense of community benefit adoptive parents? How does it shape the identity of a foster or adopted child?

Adoption communities offer a safe space for families and children. Here, we do not need to prepare an explanation for why we chose adoption. It is understood that we wanted to become parents and viewed adoption as a natural path to achieve that goal.

Kids who spend time with other kids who are adopted see their experience as normal. Among kindred spirits, they can safely share how it feels to be the only adopted child in their class, or how they met their first parents and it went well or didn’t go well. In these spaces, they do not carry the burden of explaining why they don’t look like their (adoptive) parents or why they do look like their parents but are adopted. It frees them to enjoy life as part of a special club.

 

How do you think the definition of a family has changed in recent years? How has the idea of a “traditional” family excluded marginalized people, especially single Black mothers?

Modern American women are free to define and create family on their terms. We have moved away from believing that a nuclear family—father, mother, 2.5 kids and a dog—is the only way to be a family. Women are less likely to be shamed for having a job or wanting to stay at home with their children. The definition of family has even expanded to include single moms, adoptive families, LGBTQIA family configurations, kinship family dynamics and mixed-raced couples.

Depending on the socioeconomics of a community, sometimes the traditional paradigm of a family was not modeled or available due to poverty, racism, incarceration, unemployment, homelessness, etc. Also, many Black families are multigenerational, with grandparents or other relatives on hand to support the entire household. Our nontraditional familial configurations deem us marginal by mainstream standards, even when we do not.

In the case of white women willing to go it alone and bring a child into the world without a partner, she is often described as badass in mainstream culture. This nod to the independence of white women does not always extend to poor women or women of color. The reason is simple. Black mothers exist at the bottom of the racialized motherhood totem pole, as we are still saddled with negative stereotypes if we’re thought of at all. There are obvious exceptions—Michelle Obama and Serena Williams come to mind—but these ladies are married and have the means to provide stable homes for their families. Single Black women who pursue nontraditional paths to parenthood receive a side-eye from Blacks and whites. It is assumed that homes headed by single Black mothers are poorer, less intellectually stimulating and a breeding ground for children who are prone to delinquency. This racist characterization of single Black mothers suggests that our kids don’t stand a chance.   

 

What has been your favorite Mother’s Day to date?

Mother’s Day 2014 was my hands down favorite because it was the first Mother’s Day I had with both kids. Their godfather and a close friend made brunch: salmon croquettes and waffles, two things I don’t normally eat. No one bothered to ask if I liked either dish, but the effort let me know that I was appreciated.

 

What has been the best piece of advice you’ve received? On the flip side, what has been the worst, and if applicable, how has it revealed the conscious and/or unconscious racial bias of the speaker?

The best advice I have received is to put my oxygen mask on first. Self-care is critical to my being the best mother possible, and every day I strive to make myself a priority.

The worst advice was that my future baby from the foster care system would be a “crack” baby. The speaker believed the 1990s media frenzy about how the first parents who used crack cocaine would produce babies who would not thrive, would be sickly, would have physical and developmental delays and grow up to be criminals. Of course, this was nonsense, and research later confirmed that foster children who were drug exposed and then placed in stable homes showed no academic or developmental differences by third grade. It all came down to children having a safe, loving and stable home environment. Sadly, this bad advice was not a function of racist unconscious basis but media-sponsored fear and misinformation run amok.

 

If you could go back and do one thing differently during your adoption journey, would you? And if so, what would it be and why?

My adoption journey had peaks and valleys, but the outcome was two healthy, sweet children. I wouldn’t change a thing.

 

How do you think the foster and adoptive system can be improved in the U.S.?

One way to improve the foster and adoptive system is to hire additional social workers and reduce their caseloads. Smaller caseloads would serve three purposes: (1) individualized support for first parents, who often unconsciously repeat their own cycles of abuse and neglect and lose custody of their children; (2) better screenings for prospective foster/adoptive parents when family reunification is no longer feasible; and (3) the ability for social workers to really bond with children on their caseload, in order to find the best matches for them.

 

Do you envision August and/or Cherish reading your memoir when they’re older? What is the most important thing you hope they take away from the book?

Absolutely. August has already tried to read it, but I keep taking it from him. LOL

I hope they know how much I love and admire them. I did my best to make their journeys easier and hope they remember to pay it forward.

 

ALSO IN BOOKPAGE: Read our review of Motherhood So White.

Author photo by Bobby Quillard

We spoke with Nefertiti Austin about her memoir, Motherhood So White, and how she settled into her identity as a Black mother without appeasing societal expectations.
Authors who turn themselves inside out for their stories, who are the most vulnerable and giving in their writing, often matter to us the most. Saeed Jones discusses the nature of vulnerability while on a book tour.
Interview by

Jazz-Age America promises all the drama you could ever hope for: bootleggers and flappers, parties and criminals and crooked government agents. All this and more come alive in Karen Abbott’s compulsively readable The Ghosts of Eden Park.

For all the surprises packed within its pages, perhaps the greatest is that every single line of dialogue comes directly from a primary source. It’s a true researching feat—and it means we’re extra excited to see Abbott at this year’s Southern Festival of Books. We reached out to her about book-tour traditions and what it’s like to interact with her readers.


What is the mark of a really great book event?
The enthusiasm and the energy of the crowd, lots of sales, people who laugh at my jokes . . . 😉

What have you most enjoyed about interacting with the readership of The Ghosts of Eden Park?
I love hearing people’s personal connections to the history: Someone’s grandfather was a bootlegger; another’s grandmother was a flapper; and numerous others share fascinating tales of far-flung ancestors who operated speakeasies or ran errands for George Remus or sought legal help from Mabel Walker Willebrandt. Those kinds of connections make these long-dead characters come back to life.

When visiting a city for a book event, do you have any rituals, either for yourself or to get to know the city?
I like to find an off-the-beaten-path local bar—something tucked away, with an interesting and possibly wicked history—and enjoy the signature cocktail while I review my notes.

If you could sit in the audience of an event with any author, living or dead, who would you like to see read from and discuss their book?
Tough one! Male author: Edgar Allan Poe, talking about The Fall of the House of Usher and The Philosophy of Composition. Female author: Patricia Highsmith on This Sweet Sickness, The Blunderer, The Talented Mr. Ripley or any of her choosing.

What have you learned about your book through your interactions with its readers that you didn’t know before it was published?
This book was a bit of a departure for me; I structured it like a true crime thriller and whodunit. Even though The Ghosts of Eden Park is history and the events are google-able, I am pleasantly surprised that people want to approach it as it if were fiction. They want to be surprised by the twists and turns and to guess who murders whom.

Were there any elements of your research into The Ghosts of Eden Park that didn’t make it into the book?
I could have written an entire chapter on ways ordinary citizens smuggled alcohol or subverted Prohibition laws. There was a “book” titled The Four Swallows that disguised a flask; flip the top and you’d find four vials to be filled with the whiskey of your choice. There were “cow shoes” that didn’t hold liquor but were invaluable for bootleggers who made moonshine in meadows or forests. The wooden heels were carved to resemble animal hooves, and they literally covered the bootleggers’ tracks when being pursued on foot by Prohibition agents. And one more: a female Prohibition named Daisy Simpson, aka “Lady Hooch Hunter,” who deserves a book of her own.

 

ALSO IN BOOKPAGE: Read our review of The Ghosts of Eden Park.

Author photo by Gilbert King

Jazz-Age America promises all the drama you could ever hope for: bootleggers and flappers, parties and criminals and crooked government agents. All this and more come alive in Karen Abbott’s compulsively readable The Ghosts of Eden Park.
Interview by

After a lifetime as her family’s secret keeper, Adrienne Brodeur faces the truth, finds compassion for her mother and breaks a generations-long pattern of dysfunction.


The best memoirs can resonate with readers who are the furthest removed from the book’s events. These stories gently tug on knotty threads and unspool to reveal a common humanity. For most readers, what happens to Adrienne Brodeur in her memoir, Wild Game: My Mother, Her Lover, and Me, is incomprehensible. But in Brodeur’s talented hands, every reader who has ever had an unhappy mother can relate. 

First, the story: One night, when Brodeur is 14 years old, her mother, Malabar, wakes her up. Malabar was a divorced journalist and cookbook author who moved her children to Massachusetts to live with her wealthy new husband, a man who became ill not long after their marriage. On this life-altering night, Malabar gleefully shares with her daughter that a charismatic family friend, Ben—also married to someone who is not well—had kissed her. 

Behind their spouses’ backs, Ben keeps kissing Malabar, and then some. A giddy Malabar updates her adolescent daughter about every twist and turn as the affair unfolds, from the beaches of Cape Cod to hotels in New York City. Together, the three keep the affair a secret from both families. The deception seems to eat away only at Brodeur. 

Still, Brodeur is pleased to be let into her enigmatic mother’s secret world. She counsels Malabar on how to hide the affair and even provides cover stories—uneasily, of course, but Brodeur had been manipulated into believing that “this affair was being conducted with everyone’s best interests at heart.” Throughout high school, college and young adulthood, her mom’s forbidden romance consumes Brodeur. She dreads the day it might become known and hurt people she loves. (No spoilers, but what happens to both families is more complicated than the reader could ever imagine.)

The book is causing a stir in both the publishing industry and Hollywood. Fourteen publishing houses bid for Wild Game at auction, and Houghton Mifflin Harcourt paid a seven-figure advance. Brodeur sold the film rights to Chernin Entertainment, and filmmaker Kelly Fremon Craig (The Edge of Seventeen) is helming the adaptation. Like any memoirist, Brodeur is nervous about how such a personal story will be depicted on screen. But she’s read a first draft of a screenplay “that managed to capture all the emotional truth and essence and yet be very much its own thing,” she says.

“For all of us people in the world who do have difficult childhoods or hold some secret, I hope the book demonstrates that, by facing them, we can all get out from under them.”

Now 53, Brodeur says there wasn’t a specific moment when she knew her life story could be a memoir. (She had a long history of shepherding other writers’ stories into existence, first as co-founder of the literary magazine Zoetrope: All-Story with director Francis Ford Coppola, and now as executive director of the literary nonprofit Aspen Words.) A turning point came 14 years ago, she says, when she became a parent and experienced the mother-child bond from the other side. 

“It dawned on me that I really needed to reckon with my past and that I didn’t want to repeat these—it’s sort of catchphrase-y—but inherited traumas, these things that had happened to me that seemed to have happened to generations of my family,” she says.

The “things” to which Brodeur refers are infidelity, violence, narcissism and alcoholism. Additionally, Malabar suffered the death of her first child, Christopher, who choked to death at age 2, and an ensuing acrimonious divorce from Brodeur’s father, New Yorker writer Paul Brodeur. Adrienne acknowledges, “[My mother] had a much, much more difficult childhood and life than I ever did.”

But does a difficult life absolve Malabar of her mistakes? Brodeur says, “The surprising thing that took place in exploring what was a complicated part of my life was how . . . the need to forgive [my mother], on some level, took a back seat to the need to understand her.” While researching for the book, Brodeur returned to her own journals from this time, and she read through her mother’s copious notes on recipes and articles. “As I researched her life and put myself in her shoes, it became a path to forgiveness,” she says. “My heart expanded from going through this process. I truly believe that my mother did the best job she could, and obviously, she made enormous mistakes.”

It would be easy to dismiss Wild Game as shocking family drama. But Brodeur weaves together the story of her parentified childhood, the burdens of secret-keeping and her mother’s traumatic life such that we learn from her bottomless compassion. 

“It’s a story of resilience and breaking patterns,” she says. “For all of us people in the world who do have difficult childhoods or hold some secret, I hope the book demonstrates that, by facing them, we can all get out from under them.”

As Brodeur faces her family’s secrets in Wild Game, she reveals the beauty in humanity’s messiness—most of all her own. And as with only the best memoirs, we the readers are better for it.

 

ALSO IN BOOKPAGE: Read our review of Wild Game.

After a lifetime as her family’s secret keeper, Adrienne Brodeur faces the truth, finds compassion for her mother and breaks a generations-long pattern of dysfunction.

For members of the Nashville literary community, Margaret Renkl is something of a hometown hero, and she attends this year’s Southern Festival of Books as an author for the first time with her astounding memoir, Late Migrations: A Natural History of Love and Loss.

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After 88 years as America’s most popular cookbook, Irma Rombauer’s great-grandson John Becker and his wife, Megan Scott, continue the legacy of Joy of Cooking. We caught up with the authors about their contributions to this latest edition.


What’s the biggest difference between the original edition of Joy and this one?
Size! This is due to several factors. Perhaps the most meaningful and defining is Marion [Rombauer Becker]’s contribution to the 1963 and 1975 editions of Joy. These two editions were truly groundbreaking for us. Before, Joy was Irma [Rombauer]’s book: a collection of useful recipes, rendered on the page with wit and aplomb. Marion had a grander vision for Joy: a collection of recipes and a primer on making ingredients—items such as corned beef, sausage, cheese and tofu—from scratch and a compendium of trusted information, covering subjects ranging from the best fats to use for deep-frying to tips for beating egg whites to instructions for growing various herbs to the difference between cassia and true cinnamon.

Though we hold the 1931 edition as sacred and admire Irma’s style and wit, Marion is the one whom we looked to most when deciding how best to improve Joy. The cookbook publishing world has a surplus of titles that are highly personal. Indeed, personality is the primary selling point for countless books every year. Among this abundance of tightly focused titles, we felt that the best way to position Joy was as a supplement of comprehensive practical knowledge—one specifically geared toward readers who are cooking for the first time, as well as toward curious cooks who need to fill in the inevitable blanks left by more personality-based or single-subject titles. We also wanted to give a sense of identity and perspective in our writing, since that’s what so many of our readers have loved about Joy over the decades. We tried to inject some of our own humor, opinions and personality throughout the book, much as Irma did. We want to inform and educate, but we don’t want to put people to sleep in the process!

“We try to assume as little as possible about our readers and their knowledge base. Whereas most titles are aimed at specific audiences, we deliberately try not to.”

What characteristics does the typical cook have in 2019 as opposed to 1931? What traits do they share?
We’re not sure we’re qualified to normatively define a “typical cook.” Such things are best left to historians, sociologists and cultural anthropologists. We know for a fact that we did not “focus group” this edition in any way. Actually, this is perhaps one of the more unique things about Joy: We try to assume as little as possible about our readers and their knowledge base. Whereas most titles are aimed at specific audiences, we deliberately try not to. This is definitely an unpopular marketing strategy, but we think the result will serve our readers well in the kitchen.

If we had to armchair it though, we would say that the biggest changes in our (potential) readership are:

1) Diversity: This country is less homogenous. Thus, our collective awareness of different cooking traditions is unprecedented.

2) Gender: Home cooking is not as gendered as it used to be.

3) Engagement: Modern food media is huge, social media is huge, and as a result cooks are more motivated, engaged and educated than ever before.

As far as what we share in common with cooks circa 1931: We all need to sustain ourselves and our loved ones, we all (to one degree or another) think of cooking as an act of caring, and we all need guidance and encouragement when we are learning how to cook.

Joy has been referred to as the kitchen Bible. How, like the Bible, can this cookbook inspire love, community and dedication?
We always find this analogy troubling . . . or perhaps the better word is thought-provoking. In what ways is our book like a religious text that purports to explain the ways of God to humanity? Do readers really feel like we are prescribing how they should eat? Is our book more of a new or old testament?

Speaking of new testaments, we can certainly attest that some readers invariably find the changes we make from edition to edition apocryphal. We get impassioned complaints, especially with regard to recipes we cut. My [John’s] father, Ethan, recalls an especially memorable haranguing over the omission of an orange chiffon frosting recipe. Just recently, we were hassled over the absence of schaumtorte. (It was cut in 2006, so don’t blame us!)

In some ways, comparing a comprehensive, beloved book to the Bible is apt: Both Joy and the Bible occupy a special place in the homes of countless families. Many copies of Joy get passed down, not unlike a family Bible. It’s a sort of kitchen talisman.

One funny (and touching) thing we have noticed after years of interacting with Joy fans: The majority of readers will insist theirs is the “original” edition. And for them, it feels that way. If your mother hands down her copy of Joy to you—stains, margin notes, recipe cards stuffed between the pages—it was, in a very real sense, hers (and now yours). Though Irma, Marion and the rest of our family may be Joy’s authors, readers are the ones who animate the book, who cook from it, who scrawl notes in it. In this way, people claim Joy as their own, which is not unlike how the devout internalize and interpret scripture. To us, it speaks to the (very humbling) place we occupy in the lives of families.

“We get impassioned complaints, especially with regard to recipes we cut. Just recently, we were hassled over the absence of schaumtorte. (It was cut in 2006, so don’t blame us!)”

For some, cooking is a form of art. For others, cooking is a way of science, experimentation and discovery. What is cooking for you?
It depends on our mood. Sometimes, we are animated by the idea of cooking as scientific inquiry—exploring new recipes, using an ingredient that is new to us. Other times, we are drawn into the kitchen with a fully formed idea that we want to realize (which we guess is a form of artistic self-expression?). Honestly though, we think both of these scenarios occur in our kitchen because of our profession. And even then, they do not characterize the majority of our time spent cooking.

As lifelong home cooks, we think of cooking as daily practice. Sure, it’s necessary for providing sustenance, but it’s also one of the essential ways we express care and affection for others (and ourselves). Experimentation and art seem to presuppose a beginning: resolving to shop for a new recipe, sourcing a special ingredient to try or experiencing a creative moment of ideation. Habitual cooking, however, is much more fluid and messy—guided by what’s on hand, what’s leftover and what we are able to fit into our lives.

For us, being able to confidently juggle time, ingredients on hand and appetites is a source of joy—one that is achievable and grounded rather than aspirational and perfectionist. Making cooking artistic and scientific can be motivational and enriching for ambitious cooks. However, for most of us (most of the time), lowering the stakes a bit leads to a much more enjoyable time in the kitchen. No need to stress about performing a test correctly or getting the brush strokes just right. Though if you can channel Bob Ross in the kitchen, by all means, follow your muse!

What was the first thing you ever cooked?
John
: My mother was teaching me to make omelets when I was 5 or 6. I would always add weird, inappropriate spices, and the eggs would not look like eggs anymore. (I’ve always had the “cooking as inquiry” bug.)

Megan: I don’t remember one specific thing, but from an early age I helped my mom get dinner on the table by doing small cooking tasks like making rice or cooking green beans. By the time I was 11 or 12, I was interested in more complex things. I remember one Thanksgiving around that time I made a pumpkin creme brulee that I was really proud of.

What is the biggest mistake you’ve made while cooking?
John:
Aside from grotesquely colored omelets? Probably the time I tried to introduce my father to lamb saag and misread my own recipe—adding two tablespoons of ground cardamom instead of two teaspoons. It was borderline inedible. Still feeling shame from that one.

Megan: At Christmas when I was 14 years old, I wanted to make homemade croissants. Everything was going well until I put them in the oven. I didn’t realize that I should use a rimmed baking sheet, so some butter melted out of the croissants and pooled in the bottom of the oven, where it caught fire. My mom quickly put out the fire, and we were able to save the croissants, which turned out well, all things considered.

What is the biggest triumph you’ve had while cooking?
John:
This is tough. From a logistical point of view, I remember working at a cafe in the mornings, when there were usually just two people working, a cook and a barista/cashier/server. On several occasions, the owners would ask the cook to help out at their catering business, leaving me alone to do everything. Attending to a flat top, serving a line of customers at a coffee counter and taking orders at tables was by far the most challenging kitchen-related multitask I’ve ever done successfully.

Aside from that, it’s hard to pick. Shredding my first smoked pork shoulder at a table of appreciative guests felt really good, and so did tasting my first exceptional ragu. Pulling off something successfully on the first attempt is always fulfilling and special. (This is why recipes are so important, even if “firing from the hip” is generally more fun.)

Megan: It’s not one single triumph, but learning how to make pies really well is one of my proudest accomplishments. There is definitely an art to making pastry crust and keeping it crisp and flaky. For me, nothing quite compares to pulling a perfectly baked pie out of the oven. Really, any kind of pastry project that turns out well makes you feel a little like a wizard.

What are some of the challenges today’s home cooks face, and how were those challenges addressed in this new edition of Joy?
Overcoming the initial reluctance to start cooking is the biggest challenge facing home cooks. (Or not getting discouraged after a failure or two.) We think this has held true throughout our publication history: Those first steps are the hardest.

And though there is much more enthusiasm for cooking today—as hobby, profession and entertainment/sport—we’re not sure these developments have done anything to quell the anxieties of novices. Expectations have risen, which has the potential to alienate and discourage. To varying degrees, food media invite cooks to compare their own efforts against those of professional chefs, to emulate them, to “cook like a pro.” The judgey, tense atmosphere of competition shows make a spectacle of kitchen failures. Though this may drive enrollment at culinary schools, secure advertising dollars for publications and raise ratings at television networks, we question the utility of this mindset (taken as a whole) for home cooks.

Long story short: We think the recent overexposure of cooking and the various narratives that have formed around how we celebrate, value and codify it have made it harder for people to participate, not easier. Chef means “boss,” the leader of a militaristic batterie de cuisine. Why are we referring to each other like that, and why are other titles—like “cook”—seen as less important?

In this edition, we have tried to forgo this mindset altogether and to invite readers to think of cooking as a good habit or a way of life, rather than as a performance to be judged. For Joy, this is nothing new. Since Irma [Rombauer] self-published the first edition, our family has tried to demystify and “deprofessionalize” cooking, to provide answers to as many questions as we possibly can, to address readers as fellow cooks and to enable rather than prescribe or dictate good taste.

“We think the recent overexposure of cooking and the various narratives that have formed around how we celebrate, value and codify it has made it harder for people to participate, not easier. . . . In this edition, we have tried to forgo this mindset altogether and to invite readers to think of cooking as a good habit or a way of life, rather than as a performance to be judged.”

How have your personalities—likes, dislikes, unique experiences and perspectives—found their way into the cookbook?
The new recipes we have included are certainly a record of our enthusiasms and taste. Beyond that, we have lived and breathed this book for nine years. Even if we wanted to, it would be hard to avoid reflecting our personalities in this book. Some specific things:

Spicy and “funky” stuff. Many of the recipes in the new edition do not shy away from the use of spicy and/or pungent ingredients. This is no accident! We love strong flavors, spices and chiles in all their forms.

Nerd-outs on meat cuts, veg and fruit varieties, ingredient info, preservation processes and fermentation. I (John) love researching subjects. I love digging for stuff, learning things, writing about them. (This is why I identify with Marion much more than Irma. Marion was the bookworm!) Though somewhat consuming, the opportunity to fact-check and expand upon the material Joy covers was a dream come true for me.

How does cooking give you joy?
When we’re in a certain mood, thinking of cooking as inquiry can be a lot of fun; conversely, if one of us has a “creation” worked out in our head, bringing it into the world can be very fulfilling. And, of course, being able to express care and gratitude for others by cooking for them is a source of joy for us.

Another joy-giving aspect of cooking that’s especially important for us: contemplation. There are some kitchen tasks that require your full attention—shelling beans, browning meats for a braise or ragu, peeling and cutting vegetables, to name a few—that, for us, are incredibly satisfying because they force you to slow down and just be in the moment. These are the same tasks that are supposed to be onerous, the ones home cooks have no time for, the prep steps that 30-minute-meal hawkers try to dispense with (or offer hacks to cope with).

We’re not always in the mood to be contemplative. Sometimes dinner just needs to get to the table ASAP. But for less stressful moments, there is little we like more than sharpening a knife, making sausage links, tending the fire of a smoker full of pork, stuffing an herb paste under the skin of a chicken or caramelizing onions. From our (slightly overwrought) headnote to the carmelized onions recipe:

The traditional method of slowly sweating the onions does not have to be burdensome. Think of it as a kitchen-bound lacuna in the story of your life, where contemplation and mindfulness can flourish as the onions slowly surrender their moisture and turn a deep bronze.

The kitchen can feel claustrophobic and chaotic, but sometimes it is truly a refuge!

What is something cooking gives you that nothing else can?
See the answer above! John hikes. Megan jogs and practices yoga. These activities are certainly relaxing and conducive to thought and stillness, but cooking can offer this and the opportunity to offer nourishment to others and yourself. A real twofer.

Cooking is also one of the few ways that the average person gets to create something with their hands. A lot of us have jobs where we sit at a computer and never really get the chance to be creative or to physically make something. Cooking is a skill that gives you an opportunity to flex creative muscles or to have the physical experience of making something tangible—and not only tangible but literally life-sustaining!

Which dishes from Joy should a starting-out cook try first?
John started with omelets, but it’s hard to go wrong with pancakes. They are the least intimidating and the easiest to execute, and they fall squarely under the “life skills” category. From there, we would say a batch of salsa or hummus (super low-key, no heat involved, demonstrates how you can save money by making staples from scratch). Moving on to orchestrating a whole meal: roast chicken and a big salad with scratch vinaigrette, or perhaps a spaghetti-and-meatball dinner with garlic bread, or a pot of jasmine rice and a batch of Thai curry (using store-bought paste). All of these are relatively simple recipes, and pulling them off will give beginners confidence and a rationale to keep it up (as in, “Hey, I could have spent a lot of money ordering this from a restaurant!”).

For an established cook—which dishes in Joy would pose a fun challenge?
Personally, we think the DIY-type recipes are the most fulfilling. Though some are not really all that complicated, they may require time to develop. Among them are: homemade pastrami, homemade bacon, homemade feta, merguez crepinettes, bratwurst, pork rinds, fermented hot sauce, kimchi, half-sour pickles, Calabrian-style chiles and nocino.

Some things that are involved but less DIY: cassoulet (using homemade duck confit if you have the time), Sichuan hotpot (simple but a bit of a production), goat birria, chicken makhini masala, pelmeni, fatayer bi sabanekh, ciabatta, kouign amann, cannelés de Bordeaux, macarons and honeycomb candy.

Which recipe is your personal favorite?
John:
This is such a tough question for us. There are so many! My favorite right now: lasagna made with fresh semolina pasta. A fall chill is in the air, and baked pasta feels like the answer. In a month, it will probably be khao soi gai, asopao de pollo, or maybe mapo dofu.

Megan: One recipe I keep coming back to is the olive oil cake. I make it whenever we have dinner guests because it’s such a simple cake but has an amazing flavor. I’m from the South, and this cake reminds me of pound cake but with an Italian twist. It also goes with any seasonal fruit, from macerated strawberries in the spring to roasted pears in the fall to citrus segments in winter. I usually serve it with whipped cream, too.

How does Irma Rombauer’s legacy live on in your family?
John: Well, every 10 years or so, we publish this big book. 🙂

No, actually, my family really does live this book. My mother recently showed me Marion’s working copy of the 1975 edition. There were marked pages and notes about things to change in the next edition. This might seem rather normal, but keep in mind that Marion passed away within two years of the book’s release. She was already planning the next edition before the ink on the last one had dried!

That was a real moment of recognition—of one obsessive seeing the work of another and feeling a kinship. Before my mother showed me Marion’s edit copy, Megan and I had already started making notes on things we wish we had been able to add to our edition and would like to incorporate into the 100th anniversary edition.

In other words, Joy is the “how.” I never had the privilege of meeting Marion or Irma, but I feel like I know and understand them by working on this book. I can see a recipe and know who added it, or read an anecdote and recognize who wrote it. In much the same way as our readers find a connection to their families through this cookbook, so have I.

Author photo © Pableaux Johnson.

After 88 years as America’s most popular cookbook, Irma Rombauer’s great-grandson John Becker and his wife, Megan Scott, continue the legacy of Joy of Cooking. We caught up with the authors about their contributions to this latest edition.


What’s the biggest difference between the original edition…

Laura Weir distills all her wisdom about how to be comfortable, contented and snug.
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Cassie Chambers grew up helping her grandparents sharecrop on a tobacco farm in Owsley County, Kentucky, one of the poorest counties in America. She went on to graduate from Yale College and Harvard Law School, eventually returning to Kentucky to work with domestic violence survivors in rural communities. Her memoir, Hill Women: Finding Family and a Way Forward in the Appalachian Mountains, celebrates the amazingly resilient women in her family and the beloved mountain culture that helped shape her.


What discoveries surprised you most as you wrote this book, in regards to both your family’s past and your thoughts about the places where you grew up?
When I first started writing this book, I thought I was going to come out of it with a lot of answers about the challenges facing Appalachia. But I was surprised by how few answers I had at the end of writing. The more I delved into the issues facing Appalachia, the more complicated they seemed. There are so many competing concerns that we need to balance, and there aren’t easy solutions to a lot of these problems. But I think acknowledging this complexity is important, and it’s only when you understand how multifaceted a lot of these issues are that you can really begin the process of solving them.

How wonderfully you write about the women in your family, especially your strong Granny, your steadfast Aunt Ruth and your amazing mother. Did your mother get a chance to read your manuscript?
She did. I am so grateful that she was able to read a draft of the book shortly before she died. I still have the copy I gave her to read with her handwritten comments in the margins. She told me that she felt like a “proud hill woman” after reading it. So much of the book is her story, and I’m glad that she felt pride in the way I portrayed her amazing life.

What thoughts go through your head when you visit the now-vacant farmhouse in Cow Creek where you once helped your family? In the book you write, “Over time I’ve come to feel more like a grateful visitor than a true resident.”
It always amazes me how little changes over time. The house still looks very much the way I remember it—only a bit more worn around the edges—even though it has now sat vacant for years. I think that’s part of why that visual image brings back such strong memories for me. There’s something special about returning to that place where I—and so many women in my family—made so many memories.

You said that despite the fact that Yale was progressive, it felt “like a place where men belonged more than women, where male voices mattered a bit more than female ones.” Do you think that’s still the case?
I haven’t spent time on campus recently to know whether I would still feel that way. But I do think it’s true that powerful institutions in general are still places where male voices are often heard more than female voices. But I think women are increasingly pushing back on that status quo and claiming a space for female voices. I think that’s a good thing.

ALSO IN BOOKPAGE: Read our review of Hill Women.

An ex-boyfriend once screamed at you, “I’m something. I matter. You’re nothing but a redneck from a redneck family. You don’t even matter.” Do you still find that certain people dismiss Appalachian residents as soon as they hear their accents or learn where they’re from?
I definitely think that’s still the case. I’ve lost my Eastern Kentucky accent over the years, but I still see the way my relatives with heavy accents are treated. I think people still have strong stereotypes about people from Appalachia. I’ve had people tell me, “There’s nothing interesting that happens in the mountains.” I know that’s not true, and that’s one of the reasons that I wanted to write this book: I wanted to show folks the creativity, intelligence and grit that exists in the Appalachian mountains.

What was it like meeting the Queen of England, and how did that happen?
It was definitely a top-ten life experience! She met with some young people on scholarships while I was living in London, and I got to spend about 30 seconds talking to her as a part of a reception. I practiced my curtsey for days beforehand, but I still messed it up!

You write that when you started working at the Harvard Legal Aid Bureau, “I had spent the past several years pretending that I fit perfectly into the privileged environments I found myself in. Now I was curious to see what it would feel like to acknowledge the mountain roots and impoverished background I’d ignored for so long.” Do you felt like the Bureau is where you discovered your calling?
I do. I’m someone who’s motivated by being able to make a tangible, visible difference in my community. The work I did at the Bureau helped me realize that about myself. I loved being able to work with women one-on-one and provide them with the resources they needed to be able to make their lives better. It was incredibly rewarding work.

You proudly write of Appalachian women that, “when given the right tools, support, and environment, these women are capable of changing the world.” What initiatives fill you with hope, and what obstacles worry you most about women in this region?
It always amazes me to see all the varied ways that Appalachian women are making their communities better, from starting community garden initiatives, to launching small businesses, to running for office to be a part of the decision-making process. So long as these women have the right resources, they can be successful change agents in their communities. It’s just a matter of making sure that they have the resources they need.

It always amazes me to see all the varied ways that Appalachian women are making their communities better, from starting community garden initiatives, to launching small businesses, to running for office to be a part of the decision-making process.

You write, “After November 2016, I realized in a whole new way that elections mattered. It wasn’t enough to save the world one family at a time.” Any thoughts on healing the political divide in this country, especially in states like Kentucky, during the upcoming presidential election year? How are you involved?
I think a lot can be accomplished if people just take time to listen—especially to those they disagree with. It’s possible to disagree with someone and still have a civil, productive conversation about important issues. I try to practice that myself and not get caught up in the “us vs. them” mentality that is so common in politics.

And I just took a big step toward being involved in a different way—I put my name on the ballot to run for Metro Council in my community! I grew up seeing women dive in to make a difference, and I decided that this was a role that would let me follow in those footsteps. Running for office with a young child is definitely an adventure, but I’m having a great time so far and learning so much about the needs of my community.

Are some people still nervous when they discover you’re “one of those political people”?
I think a lot of people are distrustful of politics because they feel that political systems haven’t worked for them. And in a lot of communities, people feel like political decision-making is something that’s done “to” them rather than “by” them. Although some folks are still wary when I tell them about my political involvement, I find that a lot of that dissipates once we sit down and have a conversation. At the end of the day, most people just want to know that you’re a straight-shooter who will keep promises.

Your mom died the day after you finished this book, and then months later your son was born. What an overwhelming collision of accomplishment, grief and joy. Do you feel your mother’s presence as you deliver her story to the world?
I do. It’s incredibly hard not having her here to be a part of this book making its way into the world. I know that she was looking forward to its release and that she would be so excited right now. But I do feel like she’s proudly looking on. And I’m trying to live each day in a way that honors her memory and legacy. She taught me to love fiercely, advocate tirelessly and remember to stop and have some fun along the way.

Have you met Ashley York and seen her wonderful documentary Hillbilly about the area where she grew up in Kentucky? I read your book soon after seeing that film, and the two make wonderful companion pieces.
A lot of folks have told me that! I haven’t met Ashley yet (having a 5-month-old baby has kept me busy the past few months!), but I would love to. From what I hear, she and I would have a lot to chat about. The more women who are out there talking about Kentucky, the better!

 

Author photo © Nathan Cornetet, Fusion Photography

Cassie Chambers grew up helping her grandparents sharecrop on a tobacco farm in Owsley County, Kentucky, one of the poorest counties in America. She went on to graduate from Yale College and Harvard Law School, eventually returning to Kentucky to work with domestic violence survivors…

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