Cooking with fire

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

Bobby Flay, known for his bold approach to American food, his fabulous New York restaurants, and his fabulously popular Food Network shows, considers grilling to be his true calling. His grilling memories go back to early childhood -- biting into fire-seared burgers, sweet corn, and lobsters in the backyard of his family's seaside summer house. Grilling has always been the focal point of the restaurants he's worked in and owned, and now the focus, too, of his TV series. So, a major grilling cookbook is surely in order and that is exactly what you get in Boy Meets Grill. There are over 125 clear, easy-to-follow recipes for meat, poultry, fish and shellfish, vegetables, side dishes, even drinks and desserts. And all of them have that special Flay flare, an excitement sparked by his unique culinary imagination. Just thinking about Softshell Crab Sandwiches with Basil Pesto Dressing and Jicama Slaw, a Porterhouse Steak with Tamarind Barbecue Sauce and Basil-Marinated Tomatoes, or Grilled Mushroom and Potato Salad with Dijon Mustard Dressing may set your taste buds on fire and ignite your passion for gastronomic grilling.

Simplicity is the name of the game -- a light brush with olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and pepper. But you're encouraged, of course, to experiment with the marvelous marinades and redolent rubs offered here. Try rib eye steak in a garlicky, herbaceous Chimichurri marinade, turkey breast in a gingery Molasses-Orange variation, or sophisticated Tarragon-Marinated Lamb Chops; rub salmon with a heady red chile mixture or a boneless leg of lamb with exotic Moroccan-inspired spices.

"After Grilling Pull Out All the Stops": In other words, accessorize with creative condiments that can be made well ahead of time; serve Mango Ketchup or Roasted Tomato Ketchup with burgers, Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa with chicken breasts, Fig and Nectarine Relish with tuna steaks, Asian Peanut Dipping Sauce with shrimp. "Do What Works. The Grill is Not Sacred": Don't fret about pre-cooking certain foods that dry out or take too long on the grill. And if you want to sear some fish for that grilled-in flavor and finish it in the oven, that's OK, too. If Bobby Flay has his way, you'll meet your grill with new skill, new recipes, and new enthusiasm, and agree heartily that grilling means good times and great food.


Salad days

No pallid salads here -- Low-Fat Ways to Cook Salads and Side Dishes is bursting with vibrant veggies, fresh fruit, and good-for-you grains, all offering the bounty of nature's nifty nutrients, and all offered in the foolproof, step-by-step recipes, and sound advice on selection, storage, and preparation we've come to expect from the reliable folks at Oxmoor House. Though the basic ingredients are low in fat, they're high in vitamins, minerals, and fiber, and sky-high in flavor. Salads from the garden are especially flavorful this time of year and their fresh tastes pair perfectly with goodies from the grill. Combine a Spinach Salad with shavings of Asiago Cheese and garlic, herb croutons, or Roasted Red Pepper and Asparagus Salad with a lean, sizzled steak and you've got a super supper. Rice, barley, bulgur, and pasta feature in savory salads such as a tangy combo of Barley and Black Beans or Cold Couscous and Cucumbers with yogurt dressing. New ideas for main dish salads, Lobster and Mango, Shrimp and Orzo, and the tried and true Grilled Chicken Caesar and Salade Nicoise, clamor for star billing as one-dish wonders. Fruit, varied and versatile, can serve in salads and sides or as appetizers and desserts -- Peppered Pears with Jarlsberg can start a meal or slip to the side, Cinnamon-Crusted Baked Apples can start as a side, finish as a dessert, or show up as a warming winter breakfast treat. Low-fat versions of classic dressings, innovative vinaigrettes, and satisfying salsas wind up this welcome tribute to plentiful produce and healthy eating.


Just desserts

A dinner without a sweet treat is like a story without an ending. It doesn't have to be elaborate or time-consuming; you don't need lots of ingredients or fancy equipment. What you do need is Melanie Barnard's Short & Sweet: Sophisticated Desserts in No Time at All. When Ms. Barnard, a noted cookbook author and magazine columnist, was growing up, her mother baked every day. Realizing that our relentlessly busy world wouldn't allow her to follow in her mother's floury footsteps, she nevertheless vowed that lack of time wouldn't stop her from serving a homemade dessert every day. All the recipes here can be made in 30 minutes or less with no more than seven ingredients. The divine decadence of Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse with Pears or the chic glamor of Chocolate Tiramisu with Tangerines can be achieved with ease and Melanie's savvy advice, insistence on top-quality components, and tested techniques. When strawberries are wonderfully ripe, just a sprinkling of balsamic vinegar, honey, and grind of black peppercorns will produce a stunningly fresh finale. You can save hours by taking advantage of the amazing array of high-quality prepared foods available -- puckery sweet Dessert Margaritas, served in sugar-crusted goblets and made with purchased lime sorbet, would be ideal after one of Bobby Flay's spicy forays; a jar of lemon curd from the gourmet shelf in the supermarket blended with whipped cream and fresh blueberries will produce luscious Lemon Blueberry Cloud; and a dazzling holiday winner can be quickly concocted from coffee ice cream, bottled marrons glaces, a little cognac, and a dusting of cocoa. Crisps, cobblers, cakes, cookies, and candy, too, take well to Melanie's melange of innovations, so even if there are not enough hours in the day, you need never go dessertless again.


Sybil Pratt is an avid cook.

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