Don't get into a stew, make one REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

Where's the beef? It's with the lamb and the pork and the veal, being roasted, grilled, sauteed, braised, barbecued, and stir-fried under the supervision of gourmet sausage maven Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly, who have gathered their collective, authoritative expertise into The Complete Meat Cookbook. Most of the meat we buy today is much leaner than it used to be, and not as succulent. This can lead to dreaded dried-out chops and shoe leather steaks. These two creative carnivores have made it their mission to show you how to prepare today's less fatty cuts so that they're juicy and flavorful. They provide the requisite tricks, tips, and techniques, all thoroughly and thoughtfully explained, from choosing the right cut and cooking method to choosing the right dry rub, marinade, or flavor brine (the latest vogue). But above all, they provide recipes, more than 230, all enthusiastically introduced, all conveniently categorized by their main characteristics -- "Cooking on a Budget" (under $2 a serving), "Good for a Crowd," "Great Leftovers," and many more. You'll find the exotic (tangy "Moroccan Lemon Tagine" made with lamb shoulder), and the elegant (roast fillet of beef with oysters and tasso), as well as new interpretations of time-honored classics (savory "Shephard's Pie" with 15 possible fillings). And you'll find great extras like "Orange-Pineapple Salsa" to perk up the pork or "Greek Grape Leaf and Mint Sauce" to add luster to the lamb, plus photographs and illustrations. "Frankly, we love meat," say the authors; frankly, meat lovers will love their book.


Hearty winter fare

Nothing beats mid-winter blahs and blues like stews, so take a cue from Jenna Holst; she's put together 200 recipes for these earthy, delicious dishes and good things to serve with them in Stews. Slow-simmered, fragrant, comforting, stews that can be made ahead and reheated can turn casual week-night meals into super suppers and make dinner parties a delight. Menu planning with these one-pot wonders is easy -- often all you have to do is add a loaf of crusty bread and a simple salad and you're dining rather than just eating. But, just in case you have any combo quandaries, Ms. Holst follows each recipe with serving suggestions: "Biscuits Any Which Way" and "Herbed Vegetable Slaw" accompany "Dijon Tarragon Chicken."

Amidst the slews of stews made with meat and poultry are some more unusual versions made with venison and duck, and there are entire sections devoted to fish and seafood, vegetables, legumes, and interestingly enough, fruit. Stew accompaniments get their own chapter, too. Ms. Holst offers clear cooking directions and handy advice on advance prep and storing. I was most intrigued by the eclectic ethnic array of the stews themselves, especially those with South African Cape Malay origins. So, don't get into a stew, make one.


Mediterranean-inspired treasures

Okay, you can boast about the roast, get in the news with your stews, what's missing? Possibly the pizzazz of pizza and the pleasures of pasta, polenta, and risotto. These Italianate treasures have become part of our American diet, and they're treated in grand style by Todd English in his most recent cookbook, The Figs Table, co-authored by Sally Sampson. English, the chef/owner of two renowned Boston eateries, Olives and Figs, pays tribute to the traditional and the trendy; in fact, he often sets the trends. Figs, considered by the cognoscenti to have the very best pizza in Boston, goes beyond the savory pie to serve Mediterranean-inspired starters, salads, soups, sandwiches, swoon-inducing sweets, pasta, and more, as the 100-plus recipes included here attest. English begins with basics -- basic herbs like roasted garlic and flavored oils and basic sauces for the three "P"s (pizza, pasta, and polenta). Then, he gets to the main events, the three "P"s themselves, with a respectful nod to risotto, offering a fabulous selection from the simple ("Creamy Cheddar and Spinach Polenta") to the sublime ("Spicy Shrimp Pizza with Caramelized Leeks and Tomato Sauce"). To English, cookbooks are like modern grandmas that teach us old and new ways. He's produced a glorious gourmet-grandma, expertly and lovingly explaining her ways to the home cook.


Sybil Pratt is an avid cook.

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