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Let my people grill!
REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT
By Steven Raichlen Workman, $22.95 576 pages, ISBN 9780761149439
Drinking, discussing and delighting in wine has become almost as American as apple pie. But wine bars, long a European mainstay, are a newer New World phenomenon, now just beginning to lure both committed connoisseurs and casual consumers. And they're as much about sampling savoriesfrom the simple to the super-sophisticatedas they are about vintages and varietals. Wine Bar Food, Cathy and Tony Mantuano's 100-recipe ode to "Mediterranean flavors to crave with wines to match," takes us out to local wine bars in Venice, Rome, Seville, Barcelona, Nice, Lisbon and Athens, shows us how to make the proffered delicacies at home and suggests affordable wine pairings so we can recreate this leisurely lifestyle in our own backyards and living rooms. In addition to Falafel Crab Cakes, White Asparagus Salad, Italian-inspired salmon gravlox, thinly sliced Grilled Short Ribs and Crispy Parmigiano Flatbread, three chapters offer no-cook options for easy entertaining. Try a dazzling selection of cured meat, an array of imported cheeses or high-quality canned and jarred products that need only a drizzle of olive oil and some crusty bread. Adjust, adapt, pick and choose, fill the glasses and enjoy!
By Cathy and Tony Mantuano Potter, $27.50 208 pages, ISBN 9780307352798
Salads come in many shapes and sizes. They can be first courses, main dishes or follow-ups, and for Joyce Goldstein, salad savant and a master of Mediterranean cuisine, they're front and center. Goldstein's twin passions were the happy impetus for Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of One-Plate Salad Meals and Mix-and-Match Dressings. She divides this meditation on Mediterranean salads into seven categories, 146 combos in all, ranging from the tender and leafy to the hearty and beefy, with equal attention given to beans, greens, grains and a variety of veggies, seafood and chicken that easily morph into a multitude of small-plate pleasers. You'll find classics, often accented with shavings of cheese, toasted nuts or strips of prosciutto, classics with a twist like Gazpacho Bread Salad, and bright new concepts such as Persian Pomegranate and Cucumber Salad, and Shrimp Salad with Walnut Tarator Dressing. It's not just what goes into the salad that concerns Goldstein, it's what goes on the salad. In other words, you must dress for success, not in a sedate suit with matching pumps, but with a perfect balance of salt, acidity and fat. To that lofty end, she's devised 46 dressings that harmonize with the prime ingredients, not too tame, not too assertive, but in Goldilocks' immortal words, "just right"as is this entire celebration of salads.
By Joyce Goldstein Norton, $30 320 pages, ISBN 9780393065008
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