Sparks will fly

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

Katy Sparks is one of those wonderfully imaginative cookbook authors whose enthusiasm virtually vibrates from the page. Katy has cooked for spectacular restaurants and truly knows how to dazzle dazzle-seeking customers. But in her first cookbook, Sparks in the Kitchen, Katy's goal is to share the immense pleasure she takes in cooking at home. She knows that many cookbooks made up of restaurant recipes can be daunting and difficult—and very expensive—without a legion of line cooks and sous chefs. So, these recipes, though inspired by her professional pyrotechnics, are geared for home cooks who want to sprinkle their repertoire with some of Sparks' sparkle. You can start with one of Katy's small dishes: Homemade Gravlax is a sure winner, flavored with hot pepper, orange zest and juniper, with lots of options for the leftovers, if there are any. Soups, like Creamy Fennel with Mussels, Salmon and Shrimp, and sprightly salads continue to whet the appetite, while main dishes are truly main events, from Pancetta-Wrapped Duck Breast, Brined Pork Roast "Wild Boar" Style and Spiced Lamb Meatballs in Eggplant "Leaves" to monkfish with sausage-spiked cassoulet beans. Save room for the innovative veggies and savory condiments that can turn ordinary meals into special occasions and desserts that provide maximum impact with minimal prep.


Rise and shine

Carol Gordon, a successful innkeeper on Cape Cod, quickly learned that to survive, she'd need a batch of timesaving recipes; it's no fun getting up at 4:30 a.m. to start baking the morning muffins. So, she began to collect ideas from other small inns, B&B's, and family and friends for dishes that can be prepared the night before. The result is Sleep On It, 150 recipes that delectably demonstrate how a little premeditation (the good kind) allows you to serve up fabulous breakfasts, brunches, lunches, appetizers and more with little fuss and lots of flavor. You do all the prep the night before, then pop the dish in the oven and, voilà, there's a breakfast/brunch of Apple Oat Cakes, Easy Wild Rice Quiche or Crème Brūlée French Toast. Quick-to-fix Mushroom Rolls that bake in 10 minutes make an elegant augmentation to the cocktail hour, then you can treat guests to Spinach Lasagne, Salmon Mexicana or Vidalia Onion Corn Casserole with an Almond Pear Clafoutis for the finale. A great way to entertain without strain.


A taste of the real Paris

When Parisians eat out they don't always choose a Michelin-starred restaurant; they often prefer a less formal establishment chosen from the renowned subset of bistros, brasseries and wine bars. If you want to sample the joys of these traditional French eateries without leaving home, join Daniel Young, an accomplished expert on gastronomy, French and otherwise, as he tours his favorites in The Bistros, Brasseries and Wine Bars of Paris. It's fun to follow Young's lively explanation of the differences between the three B's, with observations from owners, chefs and habitués, but it's even more fun to follow the recipes for the food prepared in them. These recipes were selected for their adaptability and doability from bistros, brasseries and wine bars that "exalt the ordinary," the food ordinary Parisians eat on ordinary nights. But many seem quite special, even extraordinaire, to this ordinary American. For a recent dinner party, I made the Endive Tatin with Goat Cheese, followed by a classic Veal Blanquette, newly spiced with ginger and lemongrass, and finished off with a super-silky version of Crème Caramel. And that's just a small sample of the Parisian pleasures you'll find here. If you do get to Paris, Young includes a list of his favorite haunts, with addresses and descriptions—a true insider's gourmet guide. Bon appétit!


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