Starting with the best

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

It's January, the beginning of a new year, the time to take stock of the past 12 months and look ahead to the next. We expect a State of the Union address from the president and, of only slightly lesser import, the state-of-culinary-America report from Fran McCullough and Molly Stevens. The Best American Recipes 2005-2006, the seventh in this inviting series, offers up 145 recipes and a quick scan of the trends Fran and Molly observed as they singled out the crème de la crème from books, magazines, newspapers, the Internet and even the backs of boxes. Overall, they are happy to report that "culinary creativity is hard at work all across the country." The standout trend appears to be "get real"—no fussy preparations—and renewed appreciation for "good, humble food." You'll find a full range of recipes from appetizers to sweet endings. Stunningly simple Pancetta Crisps with Goat Cheese and Pears are great with drinks. Carrot Ginger Soup, an old favorite, gets new zing from homemade ginger oil and a topping of lime crème fraiche. Neapolitan Spaghetti Pie made from leftover pasta and Tamale Pie made in a cast-iron skillet are comfort food treasures, while Dulce de Leche-Glazed Ham is an innovative take on easy elegance for a crowd. A collection of keepers from beginning to end.


Felice anno nuovo, buon appetito

There were lots of Italian cookbooks last year and there will, no doubt, be lots more this year. I've never kept count, but their popularity and number grows and grows. It's a pleasure to be able to begin this anno Italiano with Giuliano Hazan's How to Cook Italian, a book and a cook with the finest pedigree. Giuliano is the son of Marcella Hazan, the legendary introducer of real Italian cuisine to America and, with two successful previous cookbooks and a fabulous cooking school in Verona, he's proven that he's heir to her mastery of la cucina Italiana and her ability to teach it. This new book is about how Giuliano cooks at home in Florida, how he shops (at his local supermarket) and how he makes kitchen prep super-efficient. An opening chapter shows you how to equip an Italian kitchen; what's needed in an Italian pantry, fridge and freezer; and the ins and outs of basic Italian cooking techniques—all good info even if you're a seasoned cook. Now you're ready to cook a classic Pasta e Fagioli, Fusilli with Zucchini Pesto, Milanese Veal Chops, Green Beans with Parmigiana, a knock-your-socks-off Tiramisu and more. All good, all Italian, all doable in your own kitchen.


Every day with Rachael Ray

The ever-effervescent Ms. Ray doesn't want to leave anything to chance this year, and, most of all, she doesn't want to hear anyone whine about not having anything new to cook. To banish all excuses, she's come up with Rachael Ray 365: No Repeats, a whole year of her signature 30-minute meals. You can peruse, choose or start at day one with a "Top Drawer Dinner" that includes Scallion Fritters and Creamy Parmesan-Peppercorn Spinach and cook your way through the year to a big bowl of Christmas Pasta made with veal, beef, sausage, red wine and lots of garlic. Ray uses master recipes and their tasty spin-offs to wonderful advantage. For instance, Balsamic-Glazed Pork Chops with Arugula-Basil Rice Pilaf easily converts to Balsamic-Glazed Chicken and Balsamic-Glazed Swordfish with equally interesting variations on the pilaf. She guides you through every step with reassuring, encouraging precision and, because the recipes are not arranged in the conventional way, you'll find groupings—"romantic dinners," "good for a crowd," "super fast supper," etc.—that allow for a quick pick and a year of dazzling dining.


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