Great gifts for gourmets

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

According to foodie insiders, Spain is hot and set to overtake France in this year's culinary sweepstakes. Whether it happens or not (and how are we mere mortals to know?), there are two new, sensational Spanish cookbooks on the scene to excite your interest and exhilarate your palate. The New Spanish Table is Anya von Bremzen's exuberant homage to the "fusion of tradition and innovation that makes eating in Spain so thrilling." Anya loves Spanish style and simplicity: she knows the people, the place and the great chefs. That love and knowledge informs every one of these 275 fabulous recipes, illustrated with color photos throughout. They come from every corner of the country—with regional riffs on Paella, Cocido and Gazpacho—and, without losing authenticity or zing, she's made each dish doable for American home cooks. Almost better than being there!

    The New Spanish Table
    By Anya von Bremzen
    Workman, $35
    416 pages
    ISBN 076113994X


If the tempting tiny bites of Spain turn you on, then Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America by José Andrés, renowned chef and restaurateur, is your ticket. Tapas "are something to share and mix," says José, who adds that there are no fixed rules, no appetizers, no entrées. He encourages you to build a whole meal of these small plates or to find a favorite, double or triple the quantities and stick with it as a main event. Organized by ingredients, each of the 16 chapters focuses on the luscious little servings you can construct from olives, mushrooms, peppers, pork, oranges, chicken, cheese and more. Whether these petite portions are delicate or hearty, elegant or superbly spare, traditional or trendy, they offer a spectacular and innovative way to entertain as you sample Spain—a veritable tapas-try of tastes.

    Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America
    By José Andrés
    Clarkson Potter, $35
    256 pages
    ISBN 1400053595


Mark goes global
Mark Bittman is known to many of his avid fans as "the Minimalist," but that hasn't stopped him from taking on projects that are anything but minimal, like How to Cook Everything (1999), an instant classic that's supplanted all others as my go-to cooking reference. In his latest, The Best Recipes in the World, Bittman has set himself a hefty goal: "to find the most common recipes in the countries that are underrepresented in most cookbooks," to go global, beyond French and Italian. According to Bittman, you'll need "an open mind and a broad palate to appreciate this food, but not much more." You will need cuisine-specific ingredients, and Mark's easy pantry-building advice has you there in a flash. You won't need exotic techniques; the basics of cooking are the basics of international cooking. So, if you want to eat with the locals from Asia to Eastern Europe, Mexico to the Middle East, what you really need is this collection of more than 1,000 recipes, unerringly presented with Bittman's signature simplicity. A true home cook's tour de force.

    The Best Recipes in the World
    By Mark Bittman
    Broadway, $29.95
    768 pages
    ISBN 0767906721


Home sweet home
Joan Nathan celebrates the global as practiced right here at home in The New American Cooking. Waves of new immigrants have brought their native dishes with them and homegrown Americans are eager to try them. Added to this exciting ethnic mix is our increasing awareness of seasonal, local produce and artisanal products. All of these influences on our cooking culture are reflected in this marvelous melting pot of a cookbook. Nathan explored home kitchens, farms and restaurants across America, and we meet the people she met and share their recipes from Mango Lassies, Malaysian Swordfish Satays, Chilean Empanadas and Hoisin Roasted Chicken to baguettes, bagels and Baklava Ice Cream Cake. She makes old favorites fresh, and new flavors fail-safe and fun.

    The New American Cooking
    By Joan Nathan
    Knopf, $35
    464 pages
    ISBN 1400040345



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