Globe-trotting gourmet

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

Noted food writer, James Beard Award-winning cookbook author and peripatetic pursuer of culinary greatness Anya von Bremzen had a yen, not for a particular food, but for a cookbook filled with the "world's greatest hits"—the timeless, irresistible classics we know, love and want over and over again, food that has transcended trends, fads and super chefs. Anya couldn't find such a collection anywhere, so she took on this ambitious project herself. The result, The Greatest Dishes: Around the World in 80 Recipes is a fabulous collection of "edible masterpieces" chosen with great care and concern and seasoned with Anya's own extensive traveling and eating experiences. You might quibble with some of her choices, but that won't get in the way of the utter joy and comfort of having these quintessential dishes in one wonderful cookbook. The recipes are arranged alphabetically, from apple pie to Weiner schnitzel, unusual but super-handy. Each dish is introduced with what Anya calls a "biography," a brief but ample essay on its origin, originator (if there is one) and history. Some you'll know instantly—French Onion Soup, the deep, dark stalwart of bistro cooking, Perfect, Simple Eggs Benedict, Classic Bolognese Lasagna al Forno, others will surprise—magnificently marinated Korean Barbecued Short Ribs, real Russian Winter Borshch, saffron-scented Persian Chelo, the "world's loveliest way of cooking rice." Eating with this global gourmet is a true treat.


Sweet Somethings

We went around the world in 80 dishes—now we've got 80 more, but this time they're oh-so-sweet, quick-to-make desserts that never use more than eight ingredients. You find these creative confections in Gale Gand's Short and Sweet. If you're unfamiliar with the talented perpetrator of these goodies, she's executive pastry chef and co-owner of an acclaimed Chicago restaurant and the star of the Food Network's popular series Sweet Dreams. Gale, with her super-demanding work schedule, family and friends, knows how little time most of us have for making and baking desserts and knows, too, how special homemade desserts are. To beat the clock, she's simplified her sweets without ever sacrificing intense flavors and stylish presentations and includes a breakdown of what you can do ahead of time. The recipes are organized into three time categories: for example, custardy Pumpkin Pots can be whipped up in 15 minutes; Peach and Polenta Upside-Down Cake is ready in 30; and a knock-your-socks-off Chocolate Tiramisu in 45. The sweet life has never been easier.


Soup's on!

What's more inviting on a chill winter's night than a warm bowl of soup? The same can be said for a cup of cold soup on a hot summer's day. Soups can be simple, elegant, homey or eclectic, whipped up in flash or lovingly tended, ladled from a large tureen, or eaten from a scooped-out roasted acorn squash. The over 60 soups included in Paulette Mitchell's beautifully produced new book, A Beautiful Bowl of Soup: The Best Vegetarian Recipes represent this range of tastes and textures, without using meat, poultry or fish and losing only fat, not flavor. Her festive, sherry-spiked Wild Rice-Cranberry Soup delighted my guests, and I got raves for her comforting Cream of Tomato Soup, made glamorous by a puff paste crown. Many, such as Black Bean Soup, Fresh Pea Soup and Moroccan Chickpea Soup, are easy to prepare and just as easily dressed up with Mango Salsa, Parmesan Cream or Roasted Red Pepper Coulis. Paulette offers us a few stews too, including spicy Indian Cumin-Scented Coconut Milk Stew served with aromatic basmati rice and an earthy Mediterranean Saffron Stew, garnished with a garlicky rouille. Chilled summer soups and innovative dessert soups (who could resist Liquid Chocolate with Angel Food Croutons?) get their due, and helpful hints on how-tos and ingredients add to the overall excellence.


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