Making the most of summer

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

Shakespeare knew, as do we all, that "Summer's lease hath all too short a date." So, make the most of these lovely, languid high summer days with low maintenance, but marvelous, meals. Debra Ponzek, former chef at Manhattan's famed Montrachet and now chef/owner of a renowned food specialty shop, and Geralyn Delaney Graham, president of a food and wine PR firm, had those very meals in mind when they created The Summer House Cookbook. Filled with time-saving ideas and no-fuss recipes, it's tailored to fit that wonderful "summer house state of mind" where simplicity rules and less really is more. Debra and Geralyn start with "make-to-take" staples (great at home too)—like super-easy crème fraîche, marinades that turn dull into dazzling, and fragrant flavored oils—that form the building blocks for many of the dishes included. Moving on to the mains, you'll find tangy Ginger Lime Marinated Flank Steak that becomes Thai Beef Salad the next day, Cumin-Spiced Tuna that cooks in five minutes or Crispy Roasted Chicken with Garlic and Herbs (make two for luscious leftovers). Fresh farm stand veggies star in soups, salads and sides, and there are dips, drinks and delectable desserts that won't have you slaving over the proverbial hot stove. Summer cooking with Debra and Geralyn is casual and breezy—follow their lead and take it easy.


Culinary jump-starts

When Andrew Schloss, author of seven popular cookbooks, wrote Almost from Scratch: 600 Recipes for the New Convenience Cuisine, he was probably thinking of all four seasons. But his "convenience cuisine" concept is ideal for laid-back summertime meals. Schloss is a strong advocate of using the "hidden power" of the myriad prepared items now available to streamline cooking. After all, you can buy tapenade, hummos, pestos made with basil, cilantro or sun-dried tomatoes, curry simmer sauces, pickled ginger, Mexican mole, Moroccan harissa, washed and torn salad, peeled and prepped veggies, roasted chicken, fully-cooked pot roast and much, much more in the supermarket. And, with Schloss' coaching, you can make the most of these convenient ingredients to take your epicurean efforts to new heights. First, he takes you shopping for pantry essentials, then tours the market, section by section, pointing out the pros and cons of what you'll find. When you're set and set up, you can turn out marvels in minutes—Garlic Figs and Brie, Tuscan Clam and White Bean Soup, Lemon Pesto Veal Chops, Caribbean Salmon Couscous, Mango-Spareribs, Udon Noodles with Peanut Sauce, plus substantial salads, stir-fries from around the world and an ample array of desserts. Convenience has never tasted so good.


Forever Nigella

Nigella Lawson's take on summer food is as fresh and pleasing as Nigella herself. She's an unabashed culinary sensualist who considers the kitchen "not a place you escape from, but the place you escape to." For Nigella, "summer food" carries the essence of "sunny expansiveness," even if eaten when days are short and winds are chill; hence the title of her new book, Forever Summer. If you've been to "Nigellaland" before, you know the book will be brimming with exciting, enticing recipes, garnished with charmingly honest, enthusiastic commentary. I can't think of another cookbook author who calls for "fabulous tomatoes," tells you that it really doesn't matter which part of the chicken or how much you use in a chicken salad (try the Chicken, Almond and Parsley version) or admits that you will "need to clatter about with pans" to produce an unusual thyme-scented Baked Ricotta with Broiled Radicchio. The recipes cover the lot, from starters to desserts and drinks, with some timely "dog day" delights like soothing Chilled Pea and Mint Soup, Watermelon, Feta and Black Olive Salad, Sicilian Vinegar Chicken served at room temperature and a Chocolate Raspberry Pavlova to die for. Nigella is gorgeous, her book is gorgeous and the food you make will be gorgeous too.


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