Lemons and culinary truths

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

The zing thing -- subtle, strong, simple or sophisticated -- brings new life and luster to lots of dishes. How do you get it? Easy, just buy a bag of lemons and Lori Longbotham's Lemon Zest: More Than 175 Recipes with a Twist will take care of the rest. Many cookbooks that center on one ingredient feel forced or silly, as just an excuse for another round of ordinary recipes. But lemons are worth their weight in gourmet gold in these recipes, and with lots of flavor-enhancing tips, Lori shows us why. The acid in lemons can actually "cook" tender, fresh shellfish -- the result is a sensational Ceviche, made here with tiny bay scallops, with a touch of jalapeno and garlic. Parsley Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette is a divinely different, simple salad, and the vinaigrette may become a permanent part of your repertoire. As may the Gremolata, an intensely flavorful mix of finely chopped lemon zest, garlic and parsley (or other herbs), that zaps the taste buds when sprinkled on Roast Sweet Potatoes, Classic Osso Buco or Chicken Under a "Brick." (I've used it with great success on asparagus, tiny new potatoes or mixed with olive oil for a dip with zip.) Lori lets us in on how to preserve lemons Moroccan-style, make Lemon oil, limoncello liqueur, wholesome, homemade Lemon Pepper and more. You'll never sour on this flavor -- this is a tart you'll want to bring home.


Mediterranean magic

The very word "Mediterranean" instantly conjures up strong, golden sunlight, a dark azure sea, dusty green olive trees and wonderfully fresh, elegantly simple food. And summertime, when local produce is at its peak, is the perfect time to make Mediterranean meals in your own kitchen. If you don't have the time, or wherewithal, to spend months traveling from Spain, through the south of France and Italy to Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, Israel and North Africa savoring the food and collecting recipes, just dip into Sophie Grigson's Sunshine Food. Take the culinary journey with a highly acclaimed food writer who really knows and loves the sights, aromas and flavors of these seductive, sunlit lands. Sophie has gathered more than 100 of her favorite recipes, all invitingly introduced and offered with thoroughly explained, easy-to-follow directions. Among the renowned dishes here are Stifado, a comforting Greek beef stew scented with a hint of cinnamon; a vibrant Spanish Gazpacho; dark, pungent Provencal Tapenade; Grilled Field Mushrooms with Polenta and Mascarpone. But don't stop there. Try a wonderful array of small salads from Morocco, made with carrots, beets, green peppers, preserved lemons, eggplant, lentils and more that make super starters in any combination. Experiment with Tunisian Chak-Chouka, a brunch/ lunch special of eggs baked in a spicy stew of peppers and tomatoes, or Lemon Pannacotta with Carmelized Blood Oranges and Tangerine Compote. As you feast on any part of this marvelous Mediterranean melange, you'll almost feel the briney breeze and see the starched blue, sunlit sky.


Culinary truths

Kitchen miracles happen everyday. No, not the water and wine or loaves and fishes kind of miracles, but the amazing way egg yolks, vinegar and oil, with some concentrated beating, turn into creamy mayonnaise or how a real tear-jerker of an onion becomes a sweet, mellow fellow when slowly sauteed. Russ Parsons, the food editor of the Los Angeles Times, has not only pondered these miracles, he has unraveled their secrets and now gives us the scoop in How to Read a French Fry and Other Stories of Intriguing Kitchen Science. Don't be put off by "kitchen science"; this book is lively and readable, not a textbook with dull explanations of cooking chemistry. Parsons wants us to understand the simple science involved in some of the most important cooking processes and to be able to use that knowledge to improve our own cooking. Added to all the educational info are more than 100 appealing recipes that illustrate the principles he describes. I learned a lot and had a fine time doing it -- I only wish chemistry lab had been like this!


Sybil Pratt has been cooking up this column for more than five years.

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