Summing up summertime

Martha's Vineyard means summertime to the thousands of visitors who cross open ocean to reach this charming, celebrated island, and The Black Dog Tavern -- which you can see from the deck of the ferry as it pulls into Vineyard Haven harbor -- means savory, summertime food.

Opened almost 30 years ago, this simple restaurant has become a mealtime magnet and mecca for off-islanders (and that includes painters, poets, presidents, pop stars, and just plain folks) and islanders alike.

REVIEWS BY SYBIL PRATT

Having ridden the waves of food fads and fashions, its operators and chefs have developed an easy philosophy -- food should be fresh, uncomplicated, and pleasing to the eye. The Black Dog is a happy, happening place, and their first foray into cookbooks reflects the mood that shapes the food. The Black Dog Summer on the Vineyard Cookbook by Joseph Hall and Elaine Sullivan is as sunny as a perfect August day, attractively designed, filled with full-color photos that evoke the food, the place, the people, and over 120 delectable recipes that form a practical, prandial paean to three squares a day.

You'll want to rise and shine for the breakfast specials from fabulous Black Dog Fishcakes (a real Yankee treat) to a stack of Banana-Blueberry pancakes; then lunch on clam chowder (a must in New England), Watercress Mushroom Salad and Steamed Mussels; and if there's any room left for dinner, you can sample the Sesame Crusted Salmon Fillet, classic Lamb Chops with Juniper Berry Marinade, and Stir-Fried Sugar Snap Peas -- and finish up with Black Dog Ginger Cookies or their famous Fudge Bottom Pie.


Cutting edge veg

Though more and more people (one in 15 is a rough estimate) describe themselves as "vegetarian," we're all learning that you don't have to be a herbivore to appreciate meatless fare -- especially in this bountiful season. Stephan Pyles, the award-winning, TV-appearing, restaurant-owning Texas chef, who gave us New Tastes From Texas, now applies his Lone Star flare to an all-veg version of his favorite style of cooking. The boldly flavored, healthfully favored result is Southwestern Vegetarian. Spice is always nice and, as can be expected, it's here aplenty. The combos can be unusual, but intriguing -- Red Chile and Citrus Zest Pesto (with cilantro and pepitas) is a truly Southwestern take on an Italian staple, as is the Grilled Blue Corn Polenta Cakes with Tomatillo-Jalapeno Chutney, and how about Ancho Focaccia or Mole Cake? There's life beyond chiles in the Pyles repertoire, try his elegant Grilled Eggplant and Fennel with Hazelnut Oil Vinaigrette, the mashed dash of potatoes mixed with saffron and fresh corn kernels, or Roast Banana-Pumpkin Breakfast Bread, a vibrant variation, laced with coconut milk and dark rum, on an old favorite. Inventiveness is everywhere from the stocking of the Lone Star Pantry, the sampling of sizzling salsas and sauces, sensational slaws, soups, sandwiches, stews, and casseroles to pasta, pancakes, pizzas, grains, empanadas, enchiladas, and elaborate desserts. The ingredient lists can be long, the prep a few steps beyond simple, but directions are clear and the finished products, is a trip for the taste buds of herbivore, carnivore, and omnivore alike.


Timely timesaver

If you're looking for fast but fabulous finales, candlelit dinners for two, family suppers, or elegant evening parties, Lauren Chattman's Instant Gratification: Amazing Desserts in 15 Minutes or Less is your ticket. She offers 110 recipes for divine desserts that can be whipped up in less than 15 minutes, and if that's not instant enough, I don't know what is. Her Mango Rum Fool saved the day (and a very hot day) when unexpected, but expectant, guests arrived, and Chocolate "Crepes" with Kahlua Cream wowed a crowd at my last party. How sweet it is to save time and serve something sublime.

See a sample recipe


Sybil Pratt has been cooking up this column for more than five years.

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